Sunday, October 14, 2012

Favorites Photos...

...from the past week.


St. Peter's Basilica at night!




Typical cobblestone street...


Trees outside our library window (I was totally focusing on my homework...)


Ok, so I definitely have no idea who this couple is, but I had to capture the moment. They were walking hand-in-hand out of the Villa Borghese.


Isaac, from a scene in San Giovanni in Laterno (church that houses the papal throne) depicting Abraham almost offering him as a sacrifice. 


Sunset at Villa Borghese. 

A Day in Pompeii

 A couple weeks ago, we spent a full day in Pompeii. I was amazed by the size of it--it stretched on and on! I don't think I had previously fully understood that literally an entire city was preserved by Vesuvius' eruption. The variety of buildings, houses, villas, and marketplaces was pretty remarkable. I felt as though I was dropped into a diorama of an ancient Italian city, except it was life-size (and packed with tourists... Rome is full of them, but Pompeii cycles through thousands of people daily). It was pretty amazing to see something I remember learning about in second grade homeschooling and freshman year of high school. I took a couple hundred pictures, so here is a selection.


The basilica. Those diminutive pillars weren't destroyed by the volcano eruption--those tumbled during an earthquake just a few years before Vesuvius let off some steam. It was a rough decade for Pompeii.


A sun dial! :) I thought this was pretty sweet. Check out that blue sky--it was a clear, hot day, without a cloud. 


One of my favorite parts of Pompeii is the mountains. It's perched surrounded by a ring of peaks that fade into the distance... Vesuvius is a pretty constant presence, too. It managed to sneak into most of my pictures, and I had to stop myself from posting about ten of them. It isn't in this shot, though--this is of the forum, with different types of markets and temples adjoining.


This was very touching. It's the body of a little child who is huddled up and praying or covering his face.


Early on in the excavations, an archeologist filled most of the preserved bodies with plaster. That's why this little guy looks a little statue-esque. They also consolidated most of the pottery, artifacts, and bodies. In fact, most of the bodies were not on display (I was a little disappointed by the scarcity of them... I guess I was just expecting to see more dead people. Is that morbid?). However, there were more than enough houses and villas to compensate!


Archways. Traveler. 


I felt a little blonde when I realized there was an actual living city of Pompeii, too. It's perfectly natural for people to live in the area, and for a city to spring up here, but for some reason I didn't expect it. Here's the remains of a temple in the foreground with the modern Pompeii behind. And more mountains!!


This was taken near the Villa of Mysteries (more about that later). I get really excited whenever I see living things around ruins, as I mentioned in my post on the Palatine Hill. 


There it is!! Vesuvius! It's still technically an active volcano. Kristen, our Site Director, informed us that if it erupts, it's every man for himself, but she's planning on running for the ocean. 


Inside the courtyard of the Villa of Mysteries (one of the largest preserved villas in Pompeii). Some very wealthy people lived here, who appeared to be involved in a cult, based on...


...this fresco! The entire house was full of incredibly preserved frescoes (keep in mind that they're all dating to pre-79 A.D.), and this one appears to display a pagan ritual that may have been an initiation right for a new female member. They have no idea what its real purpose is, though--thus the name "Villa of Mysteries."


Isn't the red background striking?




Grave stone. Looks a bit like an altar, huh? 



The detailed tiling is pretty amazing. I love the geometric shapes here--they remind me of those pattern blocks I used to play with when I was little (and still enjoy ever time my nephews and nieces are over!).


Garden of another large villa... This one had a detailed mosaic that copied this painting, but I didn't get a good picture of it. 


Pompeii is actually pretty full of dogs. It's actually almost like an animal shelter--the dogs are protected within the city limits, so stray dogs shelter in the ruins. 


One of Pompeii's roads. These still blow my mind... the middle, main portion of the road is paved with wide flag-stones and is dropped about six inches lower than the rest of the street. They actually flooded the streets every so often to clean them--there are large stepping stones across the road every few blocks so that pedestrians could cross even when it was flooded. 


The amphitheatre! It looks almost new... and it's two thousand years old. We enjoyed perching in the upper rows to take a break from pushing past German-speaking tour-groups and over-heated middle-aged Americans. The wide feeling of space was refreshing after fairly narrow streets and mostly small houses. 


Lovely friends. :)


Vesuvius, through a window...


Another example of a street. The multiple-story building in the background is modern... but there are two-story buildings in Pompeii!



This courtyard was very tranquil (if gated off..).


Another of my favorites--the arena. 


Inside. I think I liked how secluded it was. It's in the southeast corner of the city, so it's a little less accessible. We actually thought it was closed until we found a hidden entrance. It turns out that persistence pays off in settings like this.



Sign by the arena. I really wish I read Latin.

As a whole, Pompeii was almost overwhelming. The organization of the excavations is impressive, as is the layout of the streets themselves--it looks as though city planners were active a couple thousand years ago, too. I was again reminded of the fact that people actually lived there when I filled my water bottle at the (still in-use) fountains, and when I passed large orchards of pomegranate trees. Although I was frustrated by how crowded it was and that many sections were either closed or barred off, at the end of the day, we still saw Pompeii and stepped into a different millennia. That doesn't happen every day. :)


Thursday, October 11, 2012

After a run...


...I met this little guy. One of the last roses of summer. Favorite color of my favorite flower. :)

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

A Night at the Opera! Erm... Ballet!

We are seeing loads of beautiful visual art... Bernini's fountains and bridges, lovely architecture, and frescoes like you wouldn't believe. After long periods of absorbing, though, I was ready for something different, so when one of my new friends from California asked if I would accompany her to the ballet, I jumped at the opportunity! Three of us went to the Rome Opera House and saw the professional ballet of Romeo and Juliet. We couldn't take any photos during the performance, but here are some shots of the evening:


The paintings on the ceiling, which we had an excellent view of with our gallery seating. Climbing lots of stairs was totally worth only paying twelve euros for a professional ballet performance... We didn't mind, especially because we still had a clear view of the stage.


My lovely new friends! It's pretty amazing how quickly you can get to know someone when you live in a small community and experience such new and stretching things together.


Orchestra warming up... 


Pretty. I'm a fan of chandeliers. Also, light. 


The orchestra was fantastic... I forget how much I love classical music until moments like these, when experts perform with such beautiful artistry and feeling. 

...and so it begins. The screen with the painting of the weeping girl on it was actually really neat--it was semi-transparent, and the first dance was performed behind it. Seeing a ballet was a perfect performance to see in another country, because the message the dancers sent crossed all language barriers. It was also fascinating to see the choreography reflecting Shakespeare... they even had the introductory speech   interpreted into a dance (star-crossed lovers, two houses, etc...), and made you fall in love with the characters. They made it even more heart-breaking than Shakespeare, because (in typical ballet fashion) they prolonged Romeo's death so that Juliet woke up while he was still alive, and he had a terrible realization that she was alive. In fact, when he found her "dead," there was a slightly morbid but deeply touching dance in which he danced a duet with her limp body. The muscular control and athleticism required for the entire performance was stunning, but that dance was especially powerful.


Teatro Dell'Opera!!


Sarah and I. :) (photo credit: Heidi) It was a lovely evening... We're looking at tickets to an opera of Macbeth, the weekend before we leave. It looks affordable, and I hope we make it happen!

Monday, October 8, 2012

Blood and Sand

In the past two weeks, we read The Aeneid, paced the length of the Colosseum, strolled by the Circus Maximus, and meandered around Piazza Navona. All beautiful in their own way, but so deeply steeped in blood and sacrifice.

Virgil writes so lyrically and with such vivid metaphors in The Aeneid, and praises duty and loyalty to family and nation, but the gore is continuous at times. It illustrates so clearly that in early Roman culture, there was no inherent value placed on human life. Perhaps when even your gods are morally debased, human life in turn loses essential meaning. He gets some things so well, but clearly misses the mark--he had an appreciation for dying well, but not for life itself. I mean, listen to this metaphor--it's poignant and beautiful, but it's talking about a decapitation:

                  "...his neck droops,
sinking over a shoulder, limp as a crimson flower
cut off by a passing plow, that droops as it dies
or frail as poppies, their necks weary, bending
their heads when a sudden shower weighs them down."

The Colosseum, too, was breath-taking. Immense, complex, and ancient.


These are the network of tunnels that lay beneath the main floor. Lifts and tunnels so that animals (lions and tigers... even porcupines? That one came as a surprise...) could be released at any point to surprise the gladiators or prisoners of war. They even flooded the arena to reenact naval battles. It was entirely theatrical, timed, dramatic, to draw out death to the most glorified extent...


When Emperor Titus opened the Colosseum (originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre... can't imagine why they changed the name), he held lavish games for one hundred days straight. In those one hundred days, two thousand gladiators were slaughtered. Two Thousand. That's not even touching on the amount of animals killed as well. In its prime, games were held every day--typically, the lives of men hung on the goodwill and mood of the bored and bloodthirsty masses.


They kept the arena layered with sand to soak up the blood.


...but at the same time, it is grand and impressive and breath-taking! Just imagine it when it was at its height (or watch Gladiator... that would do it, too). It's sad to me that such an incredible feat of engineering and architecture was little more than a theatrical and entertaining slaughter-house used primarily for propaganda.



The entire Colosseum (like the Palatine Hill) was crawling with tourists. I was a little disillusioned by the large groups of teenage girls posing and smirking at the camera at a place like this. I'm not sure why this was different than any other historic monument around Rome, and why the camera-loving bothered me here. I think it's because thousands upon thousands died here, and for the entertainment of the masses, and to some extent we are still entertained by their deaths. I mean, look at all the people gathering to see the place where gladiators once fought. 


...but I still smiled, and took my picture with the Colosseum. And took pictures with my friends, and walked the tourist walk. I guess part of me was sickened inside. 

We also saw the Circus Maximus and Piazza Navona. These are the two main arenas where Christians faced deaths of martyrdom. It resonated deeply to see the wide expanse where chariots once raced, see the hillside that used to fill with the populace, and see the sandy soil on which my brothers and sisters in Christ took their final stand.


Such a peaceful place, now. Families were strolling by, Cypress trees line either end of the stadium, and a long aisle of umbrella pines shelter the side. Everything about it is tranquil (except for ongoing excavations). It's almost a peaceful tribute to the lives lost here.


This is Piazza Navona, which has become one of the most popular and thriving squares in Rome. It is full of artisans, two fountains by Bernini, and many sidewalk cafes and picturesque gelaterias. It's difficult to imagine it when it was Domitian's Stadium--the only similarity is the shape of the track that the chariots used to follow. (photo credit: Ariel Goehring. I haven't nabbed a picture of this yet)


Kate and I explored a little one day, and found ourselves back at the Circus Maximus. Not many ruins remain here, but the land still holds its form and tells its history. Although the Roman temples, roads, and basilicas are impressive and interesting, these sites of Christian martyrdom speak to a place deep in my heart. They provide food for reflection and thanksgiving that God used the blood of the martyrs as the seed of the church. Although the sand of this place soaked up the blood of those Christians, that blood paved the way for the gospel to flourish and spread to the nations. And that is the hope that transforms these sights of blood into land which speaks of God's faithfulness. 

"Through the Lord's mercies we are not consumed, 
Because His compassions fail not. 
They are new every morning; Great is Your faithfulness.
'The Lord is my portion,' says my soul,
'Therefore I hope in Him!'"
-Lamentations 3:22-24